Shoaling Coefficient H H0

Transform wave height by supplied group speeds and retained energy flux on constant-width rays; no refraction or breaking correction is silently included.

Description

Wave-energy flux depends on group speed and height squared.

Wave-energy flux depends on group speed and height squared. Constant-width shoaling adjusts height when group speed or retained flux changes.

Transform wave height by supplied group speeds and retained energy flux on constant-width rays; no refraction or breaking correction is silently included.

When to use Shoaling Coefficient H H0

Use this tool to transform wave height by supplied group speeds and retained energy flux on constant-width rays; no refraction or breaking correction is silently included.

Gather the water, wave, current or profile observations and any supplied calibration constants. Confirm units and the stated coordinate and pressure conventions.

How to use Shoaling Coefficient H H0 and understand its results

  1. Gather the water, wave, current or profile observations and any supplied calibration constants. Confirm units and the stated coordinate and pressure conventions.
  2. Enter referenceWaveHeightM, referenceGroupSpeedMPerSecond, localGroupSpeedMPerSecond, retainedEnergyFluxFraction using the field table and calculation rules, then run the tool.
  3. Read shoalingHeightCoefficient, localWaveHeightM. The explanation below defines the units, signs, ordering and any flags or placeholder values.
  4. If the tool reports an input issue, correct the values and run it again. Apply the stated assumptions when interpreting a successfully returned result.
Input fieldMeaningValue type; see rules belowRequirement
referenceWaveHeightMReference wave height mnumberRequired
referenceGroupSpeedMPerSecondReference group speed m per secondnumberRequired
localGroupSpeedMPerSecondLocal group speed m per secondnumberRequired
retainedEnergyFluxFractionRetained energy flux fractionnumberRequired

Use positive group speeds, nonnegative reference height and retained fraction in [0,1]. Return coefficient and multiplied local height.1

height coefficient = sqrt(reference group speed/local group speed × retained energy)

Units, indexing, boundary conditions and exceptional cases are defined in the calculation rules above.

Output fieldMeaningValue type
shoalingHeightCoefficientShoaling height coefficientnumber
localWaveHeightMLocal wave height mnumber
json
{
  "input": {
    "referenceWaveHeightM": 0.5,
    "referenceGroupSpeedMPerSecond": 8,
    "localGroupSpeedMPerSecond": 2,
    "retainedEnergyFluxFraction": 0.81
  },
  "output": {
    "shoalingHeightCoefficient": 1.8,
    "localWaveHeightM": 0.9
  }
}

Limitations and assumptions

Refraction, breaking and ray-width changes are not silently included.

Numbers and computed results must be finite; overflow produces an error. Missing required fields, extra fields, wrong value types and violations of the calculation rules are input errors.

Alternative or Complementary methods

Use Wave Refraction Snells Coefficient: Apply Snell refraction on parallel depth contours and conservation of ray width, retaining signed angle; critical/nonpropagating rays error rather than clamp. For a complementary task, use Tsunami Shoaling Amplitude Deep To Shore: Apply linear long-wave Green shoaling plus supplied ray-width and energy-loss factors; excludes breaking, resonance and inundation and does not certify tsunami hazard.

References

  1. Shoaling Coefficient H H0 — tool.io

Similar or alternative tools

  • Wave Refraction Snells Coefficient

    Apply Snell refraction on parallel depth contours and conservation of ray width, retaining signed angle; critical/nonpropagating rays error rather than clamp.

  • Tsunami Shoaling Amplitude Deep To Shore

    Apply linear long-wave Green shoaling plus supplied ray-width and energy-loss factors; excludes breaking, resonance and inundation and does not certify tsunami hazard.

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